What is Tsuwano — Tonomachi?
"Tsuwano (つわの) is a scenic town located in the western part of Shimane Prefecture, often called the "Little Kyoto of the San'in" for its atmospheric streets and traditional charm.
In particular, Tonomachi-dori (Tonomachi Street) is a beautiful avenue lined with samurai residences and white earthen walls from the Edo period, where you can feel the town's history and traditions.
Once a prosperous castle town, Tsuwano still preserves its old buildings and stone-paved streets, giving a nostalgic sense of Japan's original landscapes.
Strolling through Tonomachi, you'll encounter narrow canals where carp swim, atmospheric shrines, and historic buildings.
Tsuwano is also known as a town of literature and attracts many visitors as the birthplace of the celebrated writer Mori Ōgai (森鷗外).
With beautiful scenery through the four seasons, it’s a spot where you can experience the charms of Japanese culture.
Highlights of Tonomachi-dori
1. Edo-period samurai houses and white walls
Walking along Tonomachi-dori, you can still see samurai residences from the Edo period, and a picturesque scene of white walls and red-tiled roofs continues along the street.
The street, preserved much as it was back then, makes you feel as if you have slipped back in time.
On the stone-paved paths and in the waterways, colorful koi carp swim, creating a calm, unhurried atmosphere.
2. Tsuwano Catholic Church
The Tsuwano Catholic Church, a symbol of Tonomachi-dori, is a wooden historic building constructed in 1931 (Showa 6).
Its Gothic-style exterior is distinctive, and the interior—with tatami flooring—offers a beautiful fusion of Japanese and Western styles.
The church was built in memory of the Christians who were martyred during the Edo period, and knowing its historical background adds depth to a visit.
3. Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum and former residence
Tsuwano is the hometown of the literary master Mori Ōgai (森鷗外).
At the Mori Ōgai Memorial Museum, materials related to his life and literary works are on display.
The former residence of Mori Ōgai, where he spent his childhood, has also been preserved and gives a sense of life in his time.
These sites are must-sees for literature fans.
4. Taikodani Inari Shrine (たいこだにいなりじんじゃ)
The Taikodani Inari Shrine, accessible on foot from Tonomachi-dori, is a beautiful shrine lined with rows of red torii gates.
It is known as a place to pray for business prosperity and household safety, and attracts worshippers from across the country.
Located halfway up the mountain, the shrine grounds offer panoramic views of the town of Tsuwano.
5. Canals with swimming carp
One of the characteristic sights of Tonomachi-dori is the small canals (掘割, horiwari) where vividly colored koi carp swim.
Carefully maintained by local residents, this beautiful scenery soothes visitors.
The reflections of samurai houses and white walls in the waterways are exactly why the town is called the "Little Kyoto of the San'in."
Enjoying each season
- Spring: Cherry blossoms reach full bloom and Tonomachi-dori is wrapped in a festive atmosphere.
- Summer: Lush greenery and the canals with swimming koi provide a refreshing scene.
- Autumn: Beautiful autumn leaves create a spectacular contrast with the townscape.
- Winter: Tonomachi-dori dusted with snow is quiet and offers a magical, otherworldly view.
Access information
Address
Tonomachi, Tsuwano Town, Kanoashi District, Shimane Prefecture
How to get there
- Train
- About a 20-minute walk or a roughly 5-minute taxi ride from JR Yamaguchi Line's "Tsuwano Station."
- Car
- About 1 hour from the Chugoku Expressway "Muikaichi IC."
Parking
There are multiple parking lots in Tsuwano town for visitors.
Recommended ways to enjoy
1. Historical walk
Take a leisurely walk along Tonomachi-dori and visit samurai houses, Tsuwano Catholic Church, and places associated with Mori Ōgai.
2. Find photo spots
The canals with swimming carp and the rows of red torii at Taikodani Inari Shrine are highly photogenic spots.
3. Taste local specialties
Enjoy Tsuwano's specialties such as uzume-meshi and Genji-maki to experience the local food culture.
Practical information for travelers
What to bring and what to wear
- Comfortable shoes: Many streets are stone-paved, so sneakers or other comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
- Camera: Bring a camera to capture historic buildings and beautiful scenery.
Notes
- Tourist manners: Many areas around the samurai residences are private property, so please observe quietly and respectfully.
- Check the weather: Summers can be hot and winters can bring snow, so check the forecast before you go.
Frequently asked questions
Q1. How much time is needed for sightseeing?
A. To walk Tonomachi-dori and visit nearby sights, plan for about 2–3 hours.
Q2. What souvenirs are recommended?
A. The local confection Genji-maki and carp-themed goods are popular souvenirs.
Q3. Are there English guides or information?
A. Some English pamphlets and informational signs are available around Tsuwano.
Summary
Tsuwano — Tonomachi is the "Little Kyoto of the San'in," where Japanese tradition and culture continue to thrive.
Stroll through the beautiful streets, visit historic buildings and landmarks, and feel the beauty of Japan.
Enjoy an unforgettable time in tranquil Tsuwano, where time seems to flow more gently.
