How the Meiji Tunnel Changed Travel through Utsunoya Pass
The Meiji Tunnel is a road tunnel through Utsunoya Pass, on the boundary between Suruga Ward in Shizuoka City and Okabe Town in Fujieda City.
Officially called the Meiji Utsunoya Tunnel (Meiji Utsunoya Zuidō), it remains as a relic of modern transportation that moved the flow of people and goods crossing a difficult section of the Tōkaidō from a mountain road underground.
A Difficult Passage between Mariko-juku and Okabe-juku
Utsunoya Pass lies between Mariko-juku, the 20th post town from Nihonbashi in Edo, and Okabe-juku, the 21st.
The route over the pass served as the early modern Tōkaidō, but climbing and descending the slopes was demanding, and the opening of a tunnel through the mountainside greatly changed how people traveled.
The First Tunnel Opened in 1876
The first tunnel beneath the pass opened in 1876 (Meiji 9) and is known as Japan's first toll tunnel.
Although it was a new facility that charged a toll, the pass road remained in use, and the walking route and tunnel supported local travel by serving different roles.
The Surviving Tunnel Was Rebuilt in 1904
The first tunnel collapsed in a fire late in the Meiji period and became impassable.
The brick tunnel that survives today was rebuilt in 1904 (Meiji 37), incorporating part of the original tunnel.
Understanding the “1876 opening” separately from the “1904 reconstruction” helps you accurately interpret the structure preserved inside and the tunnel's transportation history.
| Year | Event | What to Notice |
|---|---|---|
| 1876 | First tunnel opened | Beginning of the toll road |
| Late Meiji period | Became impassable after a fire | Turning point before reconstruction |
| 1904 | Rebuilt in brick | Date of the surviving structure |
| 1997 | Registered Cultural Property | Recognition of its preservation value |
Explore the 203 m Brick Tunnel
The surviving Meiji Utsunoya Tunnel is a 203 m-long brick structure.
By noticing how brickwork extends from the portals through the interior, you can examine Meiji-era civil engineering in three dimensions instead of simply passing through a dark corridor.
Read the Structure through the Portal Arch
At the entrance, first look at the boundary between the brick arch and the wall.
Notice the curve that channels overhead weight to both sides and the thickness of the portal holding back the mountainside, and a practical design—not mere decoration—comes into view.
If you stop near the entrance for a while, keep the path clear for others and do not block its width to take photos.
Compare the Brickwork and Lighting Inside
Inside, look for the brick colors, the continuous mortar joints, and the repeated arches extending into the distance.
Where lights strike the walls at an angle, the texture and laying pattern of the bricks are easier to see, and you can compare them with the area reached by natural light from the entrance.
Proceed without touching the walls or equipment, checking for damp surfaces and changes in level underfoot.
| Location | Feature | Observation Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Portal | Brick arch | Look at the curve and wall thickness |
| Near the entrance | Natural light and brickwork | Compare color and mortar joints |
| Center of the tunnel | Repeating arches | Follow the repeated sense of depth |
| Opposite portal | Connection with the terrain | See how it fits into the mountainside |
Understand Its Value as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property
The Meiji Utsunoya Tunnel became a nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property in 1997.
It was registered under the criterion of “contributing to the nation's historic landscape,” recognizing both its history as a transportation facility and its brick-built scenery.
The Meaning of Remaining an Active Route
Although it is a preserved structure, the tunnel remains part of a route connecting Utsunoya.
Unlike viewing an exhibit through a case, walking through it lets you physically sense the width, gradient, and changing light of the space.
Because this cultural property is still in use, visitors must avoid graffiti and touching the structure and remain mindful that the route is shared with others.
Brickwork Conveys Japan's Modernization
The all-brick structure from portal to interior gave physical form to a modern transportation route replacing the mountain road.
Rickshaws passing through it also appear in an ukiyo-e print by Utagawa Hiroshige III, inviting us to imagine how people of the time viewed the new tunnel as a symbol of civilization and enlightenment.
Do Not Confuse the Registration Year with the Construction Years
1997 is the year the tunnel was registered as a cultural property, not the year it was built.
Distinguishing 1876 for the first opening, 1904 for reconstruction of the surviving structure, and 1997 for cultural property registration as 3 separate dates makes information on local signs easier to understand.
Compare Changes in Road Technology across 4 Generations of Tunnels
Utsunoya Pass has 4 generations of tunnels known by the era names Meiji, Taishō, Shōwa, and Heisei.
Each reflects the traffic volumes, vehicles, and road technology of its time; together at the same pass, they create a place where transportation history can be compared.
Use the Meiji Tunnel as Your Reference Point
Begin with the brick Meiji Tunnel and imagine the age of pedestrians and rickshaws; this makes it easier to consider why later tunnels became necessary.
Remember its narrow cross-section, arches, and lighting, then compare them with later portals and road widths to see how the increasing size of transport is reflected in these differences in form.
View All 4 as One Transportation History
Rather than counting the 4 tunnels as separate tourist attractions, understand them along a timeline from crossing the pass to tunneling and then to automobile traffic.
Where the route meets active roads, distinguish walkable areas from vehicle lanes, follow local signs, and never make dangerous crossings or walk on the shoulder while searching for the tunnels.
| Generation | Feature to Compare | Change It Reveals |
|---|---|---|
| Meiji | Brickwork and arches | Beginning of modern roads |
| Taishō | Portal and road width | Response to growing traffic |
| Shōwa | Roadway configuration | Expansion of automobile traffic |
| Heisei | Modern equipment | Safety and transport capacity |
Extend Your Visit to Utsunoya Village and the Old Tōkaidō
East of the tunnel lies Utsunoya Village, where the road still evokes its past as an ai-no-shuku, an intermediate rest stop.
Instead of simply walking through the tunnel and back, connect the surrounding village, old Tōkaidō, and pass to understand from both the terrain and townscape why this was long a key transportation point.
Notice How the Road Curves through the Village
In Utsunoya Village, pay attention to the width and bends of the road between the houses.
Walking while imagining its role as an ai-no-shuku where travelers rested reveals how closely the route toward the pass and everyday living spaces once stood.
Avoid loud voices and unauthorized photography in front of homes, and remember that this tourist destination is also a place where people live.
Distinguish Tsuta no Hosomichi from the Early Modern Tōkaidō
Utsunoya preserves both Tsuta no Hosomichi, a path featured in literature, and the pass road used as the early modern Tōkaidō.
Although both cross the same mountain, they belong to different periods and locations, so check route names on signs and maps and do not confuse them with the road leading to the Meiji Tunnel.
Use the Roadside Station as an Information Base
Roadside Station Utsunoya Pass (Michi-no-Eki Utsunoya Tōge) is useful for taking a break and checking local information.
Facilities on the Shizuoka City side are divided between the two directions of the road, so use the indicated route, such as a pedestrian bridge, when leaving the parking area for a walking path, and do not cross the national highway directly.
Prepare for a Safe Walk through the Tunnel
An itinerary covering the Meiji Tunnel and nearby old roads may include a dark interior, wet surfaces, and slopes.
Use official access information and signs on site as your guide, and plan enough time to move around before sunset.
Secure Your Footing and Visibility
Choose slip-resistant shoes and arrange your belongings so that both hands remain free.
Even where the tunnel is lit, a small flashlight can provide reassurance in case of an outage or weather-related darkness, but do not aim a strong beam at other visitors' faces.
Prioritize Local Route Guidance
If preservation work or road conditions change the accessible area, do not pass fences or signs; check information from the municipality or roadside station.
Because road and mountain-path conditions can change quickly after rain, do not force yourself to cover every route; be prepared to limit your visit to safe areas such as the Meiji Tunnel and village.
Summary | Read Utsunoya's History through Its Brick Tunnel
The Meiji Tunnel carries into the present both the route beneath the pass that began in 1876 and the brick structure rebuilt in 1904 with a total length of 203 m.
Observe the portal and interior arches, then broaden your view to the 4 generations of tunnels, the old Tōkaidō, and Utsunoya Village to see in three dimensions the transition from travel on foot over the pass to modern roads.
Follow local guidance and explore safely without damaging the cultural property, while respecting the movement of residents and traffic on active roads.
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