The History and Traditions Behind Setsubun
Setsubun is commonly associated with events at shrines and temples, but it's also a beloved seasonal custom enjoyed in Japanese homes.
Held around February 3 each year, Setsubun marks the symbolic turning point from winter to spring in Japan.
Knowing a little about its background can transform the experience when you encounter bean-throwing or ehōmaki (lucky direction sushi rolls) during your travels.
Setsubun Originally Referred to More Than Just Spring
The word setsubun originally referred to the day before each seasonal turning point: the start of spring (risshun), summer (rikka), autumn (risshū), and winter (rittō).
Over time, the eve of risshun — which in the old Japanese calendar closely coincided with the New Year — became the most significant, and the one people now know simply as "Setsubun."
Because risshun was essentially the start of the new year under the old calendar, the day before it held the same weight as New Year's Eve — a major threshold between one year and the next.
From China's Tsuina Ritual to a Uniquely Japanese Tradition
Setsubun has its roots in tsuina, an ancient Chinese demon-expelling ceremony.
In Japan, the earliest recorded tsuina ritual took place in 706 CE, as documented in the Shoku Nihongi, a Nara-period historical chronicle. The ceremony became established as a court event during the Heian period.
Originally, a figure called the hōsōshi would drive away demons using a peach-wood bow and reed arrows. Over time the ritual evolved, and by the Muromachi period, references to throwing beans to ward off evil spirits began appearing in written records.
By the Edo period, bean-throwing had spread widely among ordinary people, forming the basis of the Setsubun traditions we know today.
How to Do Mamemaki: The Basics of Setsubun Bean-Throwing
Mamemaki: Driving Out Evil and Welcoming Good Fortune
The most iconic Setsubun activity is mamemaki — throwing beans.
The chant "Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi" ("Demons out, fortune in!") reflects the belief that illness and misfortune can be personified as oni (demons) and driven out of the home, making way for good luck.
The Beans and Eating Customs Have Symbolic Meaning
According to sources such as the National Diet Library and the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, roasted soybeans (fukumame) are traditionally used for Setsubun, with the beans symbolizing spiritual power and the wish for good health.
Roasted beans are used because of the traditional belief that sprouting from scattered beans would bring bad luck.
After the bean-throwing, it's customary to eat the same number of beans as your age — or your age plus one — a tradition that makes Setsubun something you taste as well as see, marking the change of seasons.
In regions like Hokkaido and Tōhoku, peanuts (in the shell) are used instead of soybeans.
What Do the Oni Represent? The Meaning Behind Setsubun's Chants
Oni Symbolize Misfortune, Not Just Monsters
The oni that appear during Setsubun aren't simply the monsters from Japanese folktales.
Historical sources describe oni as symbols of disease, disaster, and evil energy. Setsubun rituals were a form of prayer to ward off these threats and welcome the new season with a fresh start.
The "Demon Roles" at Shrines and Temples Carry Meaning Too
At shrine and temple Setsubun events, you may see people dressed as oni in bean-throwing ceremonies or tsuina rituals.
Rather than being meant to frighten, these performances give visible form to invisible misfortunes and bad energy — making the purpose of the ritual easier to understand.
Not Every Location Uses the Same Chant
"Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi" is the most common chant, but variations exist depending on the region and the shrine or temple.
For example, at Naritasan Shinshō-ji Temple in Chiba Prefecture, only "Fuku wa uchi" ("Fortune in!") is chanted. At Kinpusen-ji Temple in Nara Prefecture, the tradition is "Fuku wa uchi, oni mo uchi" ("Fortune in, demons in too!").
Discovering these differences in chants offers a glimpse into the local faith and history — one of the many fascinating layers of Setsubun.
How to Eat Ehōmaki: Setsubun's Lucky Sushi Roll Tradition
A Setsubun Food Custom That Has Spread Nationwide
Ehōmaki is the most widely recognized food associated with Setsubun.
According to the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, the custom involves facing the year's lucky direction (ehō — the direction where the deity Toshitokujin is said to reside), making a wish, and eating an uncut sushi roll in complete silence.
The exact origins of ehōmaki are debated, but it is often traced back to the Osaka region. The tradition spread nationwide in the 1990s when convenience stores and supermarkets began widely promoting it.
Setsubun Food Traditions Vary by Region
Setsubun food customs aren't uniform across Japan.
The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries notes that some regions maintain traditions like eating sardines or displaying hiiragi iwashi (a grilled sardine head on a holly branch placed at the entrance to ward off evil).
In addition, areas like Shinshū (Nagano Prefecture) and Izumo (Shimane Prefecture) have a tradition of eating "Setsubun soba." These regional variations make Setsubun a fascinating event to explore from place to place.
How to Enjoy Setsubun While Traveling in Japan
Check Official Information Before You Visit
Shrines and temples may hold mamemaki ceremonies or tsuina rituals around Setsubun.
However, schedules, viewing rules, photography policies, and restricted areas vary by location, so always check the official website or social media accounts before visiting.
While these events share a common cultural foundation, each venue has its own set of rules.
Focus on Learning Rather Than Collecting
If you're attending as a traveler, try focusing less on catching beans or souvenirs and more on observing the chants, the flow of the ceremony, and how local people participate. This approach makes it easier to appreciate the character of each location.
Differences in food, chants, and depictions of oni from region to region are part of what makes Setsubun so interesting.
When and Where to Experience Setsubun
Setsubun events are concentrated around February 3 (the day before risshun).
In Tokyo, Sensō-ji and Zōjō-ji are well-known venues; in Kyoto, Yoshida Shrine and Mibu-dera Temple hold popular events; and in Osaka, Naritasan Fudōson is a major destination.
Some high-profile temple mamemaki ceremonies feature celebrities and sumo wrestlers, drawing large crowds.
If heavy crowds are expected, arrive early and enjoy the event at a comfortable pace.
Summary: Experiencing Setsubun Traditions During Your Trip
Setsubun is a Japanese seasonal event held on the eve of risshun to drive out misfortune and welcome good luck.
Its history traces back to a tsuina ritual first recorded in 706 CE, which merged with Japanese annual customs and evolved into bean-throwing from the Muromachi period onward, eventually giving rise to ehōmaki and diverse regional food traditions.
You can encounter Setsubun at shrines, temples, market stalls, and family dinner tables alike — and knowing the story behind it all makes the experience far more rewarding.
